Infomation about the Island of Elba
Itinerary on Elba Island - Oasis of taste
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The cuisine of the Island of Elba can be considered spare, even in the most elaborate of its dishes. This means that the culinary notions of the Elbans are fruit of an uninterrupted series of migrations, occupations by various peoples, united by their poverty and their fate to work hard (in the mines, on the sea, in the vineyards). However, even a history of poverty reflected in the cuisine can produce surprisingly genuine and generous results.In analysing the gastronomic developments of the island's towns, we notice that the most original contributions hail from the mining area.
In Rio, one immediately notices a strong eastern influence. From the 14th through the 16th centuries, until the construction of Cosmopolite (Portoferraio), the Saracen invasions occurred frequently and the Barbaresque pirates let behind not only a bitter memory of sackings and destruction, but also something sweet, schiaccia briaca ("drunk flat bread" - originally without alcohol, in accordance with the Qu'ran) which combines typical middle-eastern ingredients (pine nuts, Smirne grapes, walnuts). Aleatico wine is an irreplaceable and necessary component of the modem day version and was introduced in the 1800s, as were the walnuts, which are not produced on the island and are, therefore, relatively expensive. The version from the 1800s used local honey instead of sugar which was rare and costly. The flat bread used no Ieavening nor any egg and was therefore easily preserved over long periods of time which made it a perfect part of the nomads' and sailors' provisions.
Later, in the 17th century, other poor dishes, such as sburrita, gurguglione and stoccafisso, were imported from the Spaniards or through the Neapolitan soldiers who guarded the garrison on the south-east part of the island, under Spanish command.
The preparation of imbollite, a type of fiat bread with the figs that are especially abundant in this area, is ancient. Sportella, is a type of anise bread, which has been refined since the time when it and cerimito, were considered objects of exchange between fiancés, during the Easter celebrations.
The shape is reminiscent of the symbol for the two sexes and it is supposed to be a good omen for a fertile season.
Caccilebbora, is also a bread with anise. It has an egg in the middle, and since ancient times has also augured well for fertility.
The great quantity and good quality of fish, enables the preparation of dishes like polpo lesso (boiled octopus), which is eaten in Elba in great quantity, fried or marinated zerri, zuppa di favolli, tattler and cuttlefish cooked in various ways, le minestrine di pesci di scoglio e bietole (reef fish and chard soup), spaghetti alla margherita (with spider crabs) and many others.
Cacciucco, as the documents of Napoleons time reveal, is prepared in the same way as it was when he was the most illustrious guest on Elba.
Marciana and Poggio are famous for sweets like corollo and schiacciunta. They are made with pigs lard and are excellent dipped in a wonderful glass of moscato, aleatico or ansonica passita. The lobsters and the spider crab the fishermen of Marina del Campo catch in certain periods of the year are sough after by gourmets.
In conclusion, it seems clear how the different placements of the inhabitants characterize Elba's cuisine. The towns in the hills and mountains have a cooking tradition based on sweets and breads of various shapes and sizes, while the seaside towns mainly offer fish based dishes. In the past there were differences between the mountain and seaside cuisine. Nowadays, while here is more homogeneity, the cuisine maintains its variety. in fact, Elba's culinary traditions also include a variety of dishes of Tuscan, Ligurian, Provencale and even pirate origin.
Alvaro Claudi (gastronomo)
(bed & breakfast, hotels, camping sites, residences, apartments on Elba Island)
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